Nilakkal

Nilakkal/Nilackal നിലയ്ക്കൽ Chayal
Village
Lord Shiva statue upon Nilakkal temple arch gate (2007 photograph)
Nilakkal/Nilackal Show map of Kerala Nilakkal/Nilackal Show map of India Location in Kerala, India
Coordinates: 9°22′49.43″N 76°59′52.6″E / 9.3803972°N 76.997944°E / 9.3803972; 76.997944Coordinates: 9°22′49.43″N 76°59′52.6″E / 9.3803972°N 76.997944°E / 9.3803972; 76.997944
Country	India
State	Kerala
District	Pathanamthitta
Panchayath	Seethathodu
Elevation	333 m (1,093 ft)
Languages
• Official	Malayalam, English
Time zone	IST (UTC+5:30)
PIN	689662
Area code(s)	04735
Vehicle registration	KL-62 (Ranni) KL-03 (Pathanamthitta)
Coastline	0 kilometres (0 mi)
Nearest cities	Chittar, Angamoozhy
Lok Sabha constituency	Pathanamthitta
Assembly constituency	Konni
Climate	Tropical monsoon (Köppen)
Nearest Airport	Cochin International Airport Limited

Nilakkal, also spelt "Nilackal" is a remote region located in the Goodrical forest range of Ranni forest division in Pathanamthitta district of the Indian state of Kerala. The place is noted mainly as an "Edathavalam" (Halting place) for the Ayyappa devotees and it is included in the Seethathodu grama panchayath in Ranni taluk. The famous Hindu piligrim center Sabarimala is located at a distance of 23 km (14 mi) in the Northeastern hilly region of Nilakkal.

Etymology

Pursuant to some historical records, the name "Nilakkal" is associated with Nilavaayil, who is considered to be the presiding deity of old sastha temple (present Sabarimala) at the forest interiors. The place has an alternate name Chayal which denotes a place sloping towards Pamba river. But in another context, Chayal (in Hebrew) is referred to someone who is left alone.

History

An illustration of Mar Sapor and Mar Proth in the altar of Nilakkal church

Nilakkal is a place with great historical relevance which date backs to the ancient times. Kerala had trade relations with Pandiyas and Cholas through a trade route passed through Nilakkal. It was a well established trade center during the first century AD, primarily exporting spices such as cinnamon, ginger, pepper and forest products like timber and ivory.^[1] The place at that time was commonly known as Nilakkal thavalam. In the early stages, the region came under the possession of Vel kings of Ay kingdom (later became Venad). When the Pandalam dynasty was established in c.79 CE, it came under the rule of Pandalam rulers. St. Thomas, an apostle of Jesus Christ accompanied by Habban arrived here in 54 AD and baptized almost 1100 people.

A stained glass painting depicting St.Thomas's sea voyage at Chartres Cathedral, France

At the beginning of first century AD, Buddhists and Christians settled in Nilakkal considered it as a place of worship. Historical records indicates that Mar sabor, a bishop from Mar Mattai monastery of Ninveh had an ashram here known by the name Chayal ashram ("Chayal" in Hebrew means people who stay alone). Towards the end of his life, he spend his time in meditation and was buried here in a hill named Sabor mala which is thought to be the present Sabarimala.^[2] In 1902, when British rule was prevailing in India, the remains of an ancient dilapidated church and a cemetery were accidentally discovered from the forest interiors.^[3] An inscription was also discovered, probably written in Roman or Greek letters which hasn't deciphered yet. These discoveries date backs to the establishment of a church here by St.Thomas back in AD 54 and was considered as one among the Seven and a half churches (Ezharappallikal) in Kerala. Thus the Christian community in Kerala consider Nilakkal as a holy place. However, still there are no factual evidences regarding the arrival of St.Thomas in Kerala. But the old metal plates, Marthoma charitham, Ramban songs and Veeradiyan songs indicates certain references about the apostle's arrival and missionary works in Nilakkal.^[4]

Destruction of Nilakkal

A group of plunderers under 'Vikram Puli Thevar' and 'Paraya Pattam' plundered the temples, churches and houses in the high ranges between AD 1253 and 1299. Fearing the chaotic situation and catastrophic events, many families settled here fled through the hill tracks and rivers and eventually migrated to places like Kanjirappally, Niranam, Ayroor, Ranni and Thumpamon. The present day descendants of those families believes in their origin from Nilakkal. The place once a flourished trading center was completely demolished by c.1341 AD. The Syrian Christians used to conduct pilgrimage to Nilakkal church and Chayal ashram till the complete destruction of the place.^[5] Several natural calamities during the first half of 14th century and the prolonged Chera - Chola war in the end of 12th century also played a vital role in the demolition of Nilakkal.^[6]

Geography and location

Photograph of a Spider from the forest interiors

Predominately it's a remote hilly area classified as Malanad (geographic division of Kerala) totally surrounded by dense reserve forests and small scale rubber plantations. Geographic coordinates of the place is 9°22′49.43″N 76°59′52.6″E. The region has an altitude ranging from 330 m (1,080 ft) above mean sea level. Even though the place is least populated, the picturesque Evergreen, semi-evergreen forests, landscape and serenity makes it enchanting. The holy river Pamba, flows westward through the northern part of Nilakkal and finally merges with Vembanadu Lake.

Nilakkal lies in the eastern part of Pathanamthitta district and west to Sabarimala near the western ghats forests. It is located on the main trunk road leading to Sabarimala temple. Pathanamthitta town is about 42 km (26 mi) and Kottayam about 78 km (48 mi). Chittar (27 km) and Angamoozhy (7 km) are the nearby townships.

Places of worship

Sree Mahadeva temple

The temple arch gate is an important landmark of the place

The old shrine at Nilakkal administrated by Travancore devaswom board (TDB) attracts lots of pilgrims. During the Sabarimala pilgrimage, lots of devotees visit the temple and probably on these days Nilakkal will be crowded by a large number of devotees. The temple which was founded in the year 1946 is located just 1 km from the main highway. Lord Shiva is the presiding deity and it's believed to be in two moods, Ugramoorthy (fierce) and Mangala pradayakan (auspicious). A common belief is that Lord Shiva is showering his blessings to his son Lord Ayyappa to fight against all evil spirits while throwing all anger to the evils. There is only two Upa Prathishtas (sub deities) here, Lord Kannimoola Ganapathi and Nandi.^[7] Three Poojas are held here every day. Special weekly days are Sunday, Monday and Friday. The Maha Shivaratri held annually is one of the noted festivals of the temple.

Palliyarakkavu Devi temple

The temple is situated near the Shiva temple with Devi as chief deity, who is considered as the Mother of lord Ayyappa. Pilgrims make offerings to Devi for their welfare and sake. The Irumudi kettu nirakkal (a ritual related to Sabarimala pilgrimage) is performed here by the pilgrims after the Nayattu vili (a narrative song). Three poojas are held every day. Aravana payasam is the main offering to Devi.^[8]

St. Thomas Ecumenical Church

Front view of Nilakkal church

Saint Thomas who was an apostle of Jesus Christ established Seven and Half Churches in Kerala and was famed as Ezharappallikal. One of these churches is the St. Thomas Ecumenical Church at Nilakkal. This church is an example of the unity of the Christian churches and also of the communal harmony. The church trust proved that unity among the churches can be maintained and at the same time give respect to the sentiments of the faiths of other religions. The main message which the church provides is of love, peace and fraternity. The church is believed to be constructed in the year AD 54. This church has the importance that it is the first Ecumenical church in the world and is has been dedicated by all the denominations as an example of heritage by St. Thomas. The Nilakkal church is located in the interior part of the Sabarimala hills, while all the other churches built by St. Thomas are near to the coastal areas. Even though there is no historical evidence of the missionary work of St. Thomas in Nilakkal, some assumptions of St.Thomas’s establishment of a church in this place is written in old metal plates and other historian writings. Since the old church is in a dilapidated stage, a new church has been constructed in a site not far from it.^[9]

Religion

The diocese of Nilakkal

Nilakkal diocese was formed on August 15, 2010 by the order issued by H.H Baselios Mar Thoma Didymos I, the Catholicos cum Malankara metropolitan. The first metropolitan of the diocese is H.G.Dr Joshua Mar Nicodimos. This newly formed diocese, comprising Kottayam and Pathanamthitta districts, has 39 parishes including almost 2953 families. These parishes are organised into five ecclesiastical districts such as Ayroor, Vayalathala, Ranni, Nilakkal and Kanakappaalam. The diocese has its headquarters at Ranni, named St. Thomas aramana, and also engages in charitable activities such as helping the poor and needy in and around the diocese.^[10]

Agitations in 1980s

Discovery of a cross

The curtain rose on March 24, 1983, with the discovery of a cross on the Kerala Farming Corporation's (KFC) private land, just 200 m from the Nilakkal Mahadeva Temple. Next day, singing hymns Father Mathew Anthiyakulam, chief priest of the nearby Pambavalley church and two jeep loads of his followers gathered round the spot where the cross was found. Immediately they erected a thatched shed and daily prayers were started. To the Catholics it was clear that this was the spot where a church was built centuries ago by St.Thomas.^[11]

Formation of Nilakkal action council

Kummanam Rajasekharan as the general convener of Nilakkal action council played a vital role in the struggles

The prayer procession held on April 24 under the guidance of Kummanam Rajasekharan and Sathyananda saraswathi (Hindu spiritual leader) marked the beginning of struggles. A meeting was held at Poorna auditorium Thiruvananthapuram for various representatives of Hindu organizations with P.Keralavarma raja as moderator. About 27 representatives actively participated in the meeting in which they decided to go on with struggles until the cross was removed from the spot. An action council was formed with Kummanam rajasekharan as general convener, Sathyananda saraswathi as chairman, J.Sisupalan as convener and including 31 other members. The council had its first meeting at Chengannur on 28 April.

Chief representatives of Hindu organizations:

• T.N Upendranatha Kurup (Devaswom board president)
• Kidangoor Gopalakrishna Pilla (N.S.S general secretary)
• D.Damodaran Potti (Ayyappa seva sangam president)
• Advocate Sambashivan (S.N.D.P union secretary)
• P.R Rajagopal
• J.Sisupalan
• P.Parameswaran

Meanwhile, the Hindus grouped with the Vishal Hindu Sammelan to fight the Catholic demand for a church. At the same time, the crusade for the church was given a thrust by the formation of the Nilakkal Action Council under the auspices of the All Kerala Catholic Congress, led by rubber tycoon M.D.Joseph.

Beginning of struggles

On May 19, when Karunakaran's government finally granted one hectare of land for a church at Nilakkal, a shocked Hindu community led by the Sammelan called for demonstrations to stop the Government from allowing the controversial church to be built. Fearing further trouble from the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS) which was holding its annual camp at Trivandrum, the Government passed prohibitory orders. In spite of that, the RSS took a route march through the city shouting pro-Hindu slogans.

Over 1,000 RSS people were arrested from various parts of Kerala, although they were later released. In the Nilakkal area there was a heavy police presence to avoid further issues. Korambala Chandran Pilla, who was seriously injured in the struggles with police force passed away after six months. On July 6, Kerala Government prohibited the Nilakkal movement.^[12]

Solving the problems

The Christian church action council and Nilakkal action council heartily welcomed the Sarvodaya leader M.G Manmadan who came with certain compromise conditions. A discussion was conducted on 27 June under Sathyananda, Kummanam, J.Sisupalan, P.Parameswaran, M.D Joseph, Fr. Antony Nirappel Jhon Madakkakuzhi and K.G Jhon. The two meetings held on 5 July and 12 August were big failures. Thus Sathyananda decided to go on with satyagraha on the Thiruvonam day. The chief moderators of various Christian sabha's pointed out to give consideration to the feelings of Hindu communities. On August 19, a committee of certain bishops was held at Kollam to discuss about the issues. They finally decided to replace the cross to another place. Both action councils fixed a spot 4 km south-west outside the sacred poongavanam (grove) of Ayyappa to build the new church. The prolonged struggles thus came to an end and brought about religious harmony and confrontation between Hindus and Christians.^[13]

Places of interest

Attathodu Tribal Colony: A remote tribal settlement is situated near Nilakkal named Attathodu, on the banks of river Pamba. Majority of the tribes here belongs to Malapandaram (Hill pandaram) tribal community, commonly seen in the sacred forest's of Sabarimala. People here engages in small scale agriculture and relays on the forest products.^[14][15]

Sabarimala temple

Sabarimala: The famous Hindu pilgrim destination, Sabarimala is only at a distance of 23 km from here. Nilakkal is an unavoidable place during the times of pilgrimages. All the vehicles to Sabarimala passes through Nilakkal which is on the state highway 67.

Kakki reservoir

Kakki Reservoir: Kakki reservoir is located 45 km east to Nilakkal. This dam was built as a part of Sabarigiri hydro-electric project, the second largest hydro-electric project in Kerala. This dam is situated very close to the western ghats and also it is a tourist spot.

Periyar wildlife sanctuary, view from a boat

Periyar National Park: Periyar wildlife sanctuary lies in northern part of Nilakkal. It spreads over an area of about 925 km² and is one of the 48 tiger reserves in India.

Agriculture

Rubber plantations are widespread here

Rubber is cultivated in the gentle undulating lands and in plains with favorable geographical settings making it's cultivation easier. As part of improving the parking facilities, a number of years tapped rubber trees were cut out. Sabari estate is an important estate here.^[16] Products such as pepper, and tapioca are cultivated in the populated regions. The land available for cultivation around Nilakkal is comparatively less hence most parts are covered by dense reserve forests. But the historical records points out that Nilakkal in ancient times was an important commercial center exporting several spices and forest products like timber and ivory.

Climate

A tropical climate is experienced here with comparatively low humidity as the place lies in the eastern hilly regions of western ghats. Sufficient amount of rainfall is received during the months of June, July, August and September as in many parts of Kerala. Although Humidity increases during the months of March and April, a pleasant climate is experienced. The best weather is normally from October to February. Winter begins from the month of December to mid February. Since Nilakkal and its surrounding's are in the middle of thick forest's, thundershowers are common here.

Infrastructure

Nilakkal Base Camp

Nilakkal grew into a main base camp of Sabarimala pilgrimage by the initiation of "Sabarimala master plan" by Travancore devaswom board. Government hand overed 110 hectares (270 acres) of land to Devaswom board in 2005 to improve the basic infrastructures and parking facilities at Nilakkal. Previously the land was under the possession of the Government-owned State Farming Corporation since 1982. Before 1982, the area was used for cultivating sugarcane by the co-operative Mannam Sugar Mills, Pandalam. The land was mostly utilized for improving Parking facilities.

Facilities at the camp:

• Sanitation facilities
• Water supply
• Police station
• Parking facilities (divided into sectors)
• Accommodation for devotees
• Medical center
• K.S.R.T.C chain service to Pamba

At times of Sabarimala pilgrimage, heavy and medium vehicles drops piligrims at Pamba and parks at Nilakkal in order to avoid the rush at Pamba. The parking grounds at Nilakkal could accommodate more than 4000 vehicles at one time. The parking has been divided into various sectors for the convenience of devotees from various states. The Devaswom board has improved the drinking water and sanitation facilities at the camp. A Nadapanthal (shed) was constructed in front of the Mahadeva temple for the pilgrims. Nilakkal attained huge progress by becoming a part of the master plan during the last few years.^[17]

Health and education

The nearest medical center to Nilakkal is the Government primary health center started on January 19, 2014 by Dr. Prasob enose benefiting almost 350 tribal families in Attathodu colony.

Nearby hospitals

• Govt. Primary health center Chithanya hospital Angamoozhy
• Govt. Ayurveda hospital Thulappally
• Govt. hospital Pamba
• Athura hospital, Seethathodu^[18]

Educational institutions

• Government tribal H.S.S, Kissumam
• S.A.V.H.S, Angamoozhy^[19]
• Government tribal L.P School, Attathodu
• K.R.P.M Higher secondary school, Seethathodu
• Govt. Higher secondary school, Chittar
• V. K. N. M Vocational higher secondary school, Vayyattupuzha

Transportation

Road

Mannarakkulanji - Chalakkayam state highway (SH 67) is the main highway passing through Nilakkal and also the Adoor - Vandiperiyar highway passes through Plappally, 8 km (5.0 mi) west to Nilakkal. During Sabarimala pilgrimage, state-owned K.S.R.T.C buses provides chain services from Pamba to Nilakkal at fair charges for the devotees.^[20] Private busses only operates through nearby places like Angamoozhy and Thulappally. Still transportation is comparatively less in this region.

Railway

The nearest railway stations are Chengannur (68 km) and Thiruvalla (73 km).

Airport

Cochin international airport (136 km) and Thiruvananthapuram international airport (156 km) are the nearest airports to Nilakkal. There is also a heliport at Perunad, near Nilakkal, which operates at times of Sabarimala pilgrimage. A helipad is also under construction at Nilakkal as part of the disaster management and to deal with emergency situations.^[21]

Nearby places

• Angamoozhy
• Plappally
• Attathodu
• Chalakkayam
• Elavumkal
• Rajampara
• Seethathodu
• Chittar
• Thulappally
• Naranamthodu

See also

• Saint Thomas Christians
• Thomas the Apostle
• Nilakkal Sree Mahadeva Temple

References

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Nilakkal.

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Nilakkal.

• Nilakkal travel guide from Wikivoyage
• Wikimapia views - Nilakkal